I'm a Cosmetic Scientist and a Dad, these are the 5 Ingredients I insisted were in my Teenage Skincare products

Back in 2011, teenage product formulations had barely changed in decades, marketing focussed on stereotypes and Teenage Skincare was not considered and important area of the personal care industry.

I created the SAMFARMER brand around formulations using ingredients based on evidence and data, ingredients that address teen skin issues

Rapid Hormonal Change
Developing microbiome
Spots
Increased Sebum Production
Body Odour
Greasy Hair

Here are FIVE ingredients I always look for in certain products

Cleansing

Glucosides (Decyl and Lauryl)

Derived from naturally occuring sugars a found in plants like coconuts and corn, these ingredients are inherently mild on the skin as they don't carry an electrical charge.

Teenage Skin is dealing with increased levels of sebum production due to the hormonal changes that happen in puberty and the skin's microbiome is still maturing. Mild effective cleansing is the goal and these ingredients are fantastic in achieving this.

Moisturising and Hydrating

The Ideal Combination (Squalane and Glycerin)

Oily skin is frequently dehydrated and as a consequence, this drives excess oil production, it's the skin's attempt to slow moisture loss. Excess oil production can lead to breakouts.

Glycerin is a humectant so it attracts water molecules drawing them into the upper layers of the skin. It is one of the most well-studied and effective ingredients used to hydrate skin.

Squalane is an emollient. This ingredient closely mimics the oils that occur naturally in your skin and helps to lock in the moisture that glycerin has drawn in.

Used together, Glycerin and Squalane are highly effective in hydrating teenage skin.

Spot/Acne

Salicylic Acid

Salicylic Acid stands out from other acids because it's soluble in oil. This means that Salicylic Acid can penetrate deeper into the hair follicle and right to the place where a spot starts.

This acid dissolves the mixture of dead skin cells and sebum that block pores and creates black heads and white heads (comedones)

Another thing to bear in mind is that using a higher percentage of active doesnt mean it's going to be more effective. Far from it. A well formulated product using Salicylic Acid at 1% can outperform a poorly formulated product using 2%.

Soothing

Chlorella Vulgaris

A well designed teenage skincare formulation should also include ingredients that support skin recovery and calm inflammation.

Chlorella Vulgaris is a micro algae and a great ingredient for helping the skin. It's rich in amino acids, vitamins and antioxidants proven to support skin repair at a cellular level, strengthen the skin barrier over time it also contains anti inflammatory benefits.

Deodorant

Polyglyceryl-3 Caprylate

Body odour is one of the most significant changes that happens in the teenage years and it's also one of the most misunderstood.

Sweat itself doesn't smell, it's essentially odourless. The smell comes from bacteria on the skins' surface breaking down the proteins contained in adolescent sweat. The by-products from this process create the odour.

Polyglyceryl-3 Caprylate is a plant derived, gentle, skin compatible and antimicrobial ingredient. It works by disturbing the bacteria responsible for breaking down these sweat proteins and is incredibly effective.

It's suitable for sensitive skin which really helps for those whose underarm skin is particularly gentle.